Friday, May 8, 1998
Mexican restaurant needs innovation
RESTAURANT: Run-of-the-mill cuisine doesn’t impress, but doesn’t
disappoint
By Terry Tang
Daily Bruin Contributor
Although the affordable dishes are savory enough to keep patrons
from crying out "Yo quiero Taco Bell!," Poquito Mas rustles up the
same kind of grub students can get at Baja Fresh.
Poquito Mas is a link in a restaurant chain, but the eatery is
fairly new to Westwood. Situated across from the Westside Pavilion
in a small plaza at the corner of Westwood and Olympic, Poquito Mas
can easily be missed by bustling cars and crowds. Since the
restaurant does not deliver, those without cars need to take a
five-minute bus ride. Still, the eatery provides an array of
south-of-the-border fare with a fast-food style.
With its red brick walls and wooden columns, the restaurant
projects the image of a down-home taco stand. With open booths and
tables, indoors and outdoors, which accommodates big and small
parties, customers can unwind while listening to the drifting notes
of mariachi music from the speakers. However, for guests waiting
for their meal number to be called, the atmosphere quickly loses
its novelty.
Standing out from the seating area is a Burger King-esque front
line where patrons look up at the boards for the menu. Patrons give
orders to polite, uniformed, red-capped cashiers who represent the
only service guests receive. Basically, people who are not in the
mood to wait for their food or calculate tips will feel comfortable
in such a kick-back environment.
In spite of the speedy service and inexpensive food, the
establishment sticks by its guarantee of fresh ingredients. Even
without the lard, portions are plenty, thanks to the generous
helpings of fresh guacamole, grated cheese and sour cream.
No different from other Mexican menus, entrees include the
typical variety of tacos, maschiladas (two jack cheese enchiladas)
and assorted dinner plates with the option of red "mojado" sauce
($1.99 to $5.95).
Although the quesadilla seems like an easy-to-make snack, the
jack and cheddar cheeses sandwiched between steaming tortillas come
out mouth-watering ($3.95). With its hot and creamy texture, the
cheese easily oozes onto the tongue. Cooked in a big tortilla, this
delicacy makes a hearty, shared appetizer.
For those with bigger appetites, a tostada serves as a feast by
itself. Prepared with lettuce, tomatoes and beans, the carnitas
(pork tostada) gets much of its flavor from the tender pork shreds
($5.25). Another healthy touch is the tostada shell. Although not
fresh out of the oven, the shell still tastes crunchy without the
greasy texture. As a complement to the meal, guests can choose
condiments such as fresh cilantro and salsas with different degrees
of spiciness.
Although customers will most likely have little room left, they
can try the only dessert offered – a small dish of flan ($1.25).
However, guests who lack a sweet tooth should skip this. Even with
the smooth, gelatinous texture, the flan is bland and does not gain
much from the cinnamon syrup.
The use of Grade A ingredients is definitely reflected in all
their cuisine. With the reasonable prices, Poquito Mas will attract
customers who either drive by or work near the mall. But without
much atmosphere, there is nothing on the menu unique enough to draw
students on a Friday night, tired after a long week of classes.