Friday, March 6, 1998
Folks are drawn to Cartoonsville by fun not food
RESTAURANT: Nostalgic childhood atmosphere can be bought at a
price
By Terry Tang
Daily Bruin Contributor
Within every adult there lies an inner child who longs to play
video games, guzzle root-beer floats and watch Saturday morning
cartoons.
In the kingdom of Cartoonsville, people of all ages revisit
childhood by eating and drinking against a wonderland backdrop.
However, a journey there should only be made during rare occasions
because the somewhat high prices would put even Richie Rich off
guard.
Located in Brentwood on the corner of Wilshire and Bundy,
Cartoonsville Eaterie & Funhouse is a short drive from the UCLA
campus, but far enough away from the all-too-familiar sights and
sounds of Westwood. Although far from the ideal date place,
Cartoonsville caters well to big groups and families.
At first, college students may feel out of place, but within a
group, relaxing and acting silly can come easily. Inhibition is
hard to maintain since hyper little boys and girls constantly swarm
the dining area; with music ranging from the Spice Girls to "The
Sound of Music," having a serious conversation proves
difficult.
Tailor-made for children, each table is covered in a red, purple
or green vinyl tablecloth. Even the wooden, upright chairs sport
happy faces. Vintage lunch boxes from the days of He-Man and Care
Bears, up to the time of Jurassic Park, adorn the walls and put
older customers in a nostalgic mood.
Since many of the diners are kids, the waiters are patient and
make sure the patrons know their names. However, a meal may get
interrupted by the shrill of a whistle. The high-pitched sound
signals that it is time for the waiters to break into a chorus of
"Happy Birthday" and make the lucky guest feel like a king for a
day.
One unique service the eatery offers is a versatile balloon
artist. Walking from table to table, the balloon man carries a wide
variety of colors and inflatable designs.
To go along with the carnival-like ambience, the adult menu
consists mostly of popular kiddie cuisine and incorporates
Southwestern flavors.
The meal starts off with a complimentary dish of raw carrots,
celery and dip. Customers can choose appetizers such as crispy
chicken tenders or nachos with spinach artichoke dip ($4.95 to
$6.95). Skip the conventional snack of onion rings ($4.95).
Although they give a sizable portion of at least two dozen rings,
the onions are not coated with enough batter and lack the crunchy
texture characteristic of this snack.
Entrees range from pizza and hamburgers to baby-back ribs and
come with the typical choices of salad or vegetables, and baked
potato or rice pilaf ($8.95 to $18.50). The salads contain a sparse
selection of ingredients – lettuce, spinach leaves and onions – and
could use more fresh vegetables. Also, the grilled chicken breast
is succulent and has a smoky taste but is a little salty ($11.95).
As a result, the potato or rice dish is a must. Although the
chicken and rice mesh well together, the portions do not measure up
to the price.
After the meal, guests can select from an array of sweets,
spanning from a double-chocolate cake to a giant banana split
($1.85 to $4.99). The angel-food cake topped with strawberries is
not as sweet as it sounds ($4.99). Although the cake has a spongy
texture, it only tastes sweet when dipped in the strawberry syrup.
However, it will still make a satisfying dessert for a customer who
does not crave more sugary items like an ice-cream sundae or a milk
shake.
Another confection to try is the strawberry cheesecake ($4.99).
Even with its smooth texture, the cheesecake is light enough not to
bog down the stomach. Guests may prefer to share the pricey
desserts since the cake rations are again a little meager,
considering the cost.
Cartoonsville does not fit the mold or the budget of a college
joint. Although a younger sibling would be more at home in
Cartoonsville, college students may want to give the restaurant a
try if they can keep in mind that age is just a number.