Friday, February 20, 1998
Nova Cafe is stellar getaway
RESTAURANT: Sci-fi look, tasty food contribute to comfortable
ambience
By Terry Tang
Daily Bruin Contributor
A steaming cup of espresso. A thick slice of pepperoni pizza.
Softly lit candles. A starry landscape.
This is not a meal on the U.S.S. Enterprise. At the Nova Express
Cafe, where space meets spice, the unique galaxy setting
surprisingly adds to the coffeehouse atmosphere, illuminated by the
whirring cappuccino maker and the rich aroma of Italian
cuisine.
Hidden on Fairfax Avenue a few blocks away from the Miracle
Mile, Nova Express has been on the map for more than five years.
However, being outside of Westwood, the cafe is a well-kept secret
which more students should share.
At first glance, Nova Express appears like the typical
coffeehouse. But through the door awaits a dark alien ambience.
With only fluorescent orange lava lamps hanging from the ceiling
and a candle on each table to light the way, the room carries an
aura of intimacy, not fright. The corner seats are the best in the
seat-yourself restaurant – a couple or even a small group of
friends achieves a sense of privacy in a room full of other guests.
Choose the round table if possible.
Similar to a conference table that you would find on the set
"Star Trek," this five-seater has cushioned, reclining chairs. What
more can you ask for after scarfing down a filling Earthling
Sandwich and a double espresso? Also, the table strategically faces
the make-shift cosmic scene of stars, random planets and other
celestial bodies.
The cafe enhances its lost-in-space decor with various objects
scattered around the room. A toy robot perches on the coffee bar
facing a wall plastered with sci-fi comic book covers from the
past. Also, customers can browse through a shelf of used paperbacks
of (you guessed it) science fiction and free local papers.
But while the scene may appear alien, the food is not.
Since Nova Express aims to be more of a coffee shop than a
restaurant, the service may not be as attentive as a customer may
like. Besides self-seating, menus should be picked up from the bar
before the waiter’s arrival at the table. Since the cafe spans one
room, the same waiter serves everyone. Once all of the order has
been served, it is up to the customer to ask for anything extra or
ask for the bill.
Aside from the usual coffee beverages, biscotti and cookies,
Nova Express serves an array of Italian food from "cosmic pizzas"
to "celestial" salads and sandwiches. The cafe provides a much
wider variety than many other coffee joints.
Appetizers range from chips and salsa to Waffles Fiesta – topped
with fresh fruit and whipped cream and syrup. However, a very
savory snack is the empanada ($2.25). These petite Argentinean
pocket pies – the only non-Italian food on the menu – come with
beef or spinach fillings. Piping hot, the seasoned beef snacks are
a flavorful treat. However, considering its palm-size, one empanada
does not seem like enough for the price tag.
Anyone who even mildly enjoys eating pizza should sample a slice
of the cosmic pizza combinations. The pizza menu ($1.95 to $3.50)
emphasizes fresh ingredients, a made-from-scratch dough and the
cafe’s special tomato sauce. Instead of ordering one of The
Classics (cheese, pepperoni and sausage), order the Light Ship ($
2.75/slice). Besides being one of several vegetarian choices, this
entree tastes crisp and wholesome. A homemade crust with freshly
sliced tomatoes and basil, the pizza is both healthy and hearty.
Although the crust is a bit on the crunchy side, it mixes with the
sweet tomato sauce. One slice of Nova’s pizza can go a long way in
satisfying an appetite. The chef is very generous with portions and
toppings.
Another list of entrees to choose from are the "Nutrinos"
Earthling Sandwiches ($3.35 to $6.35) which come with either a
green salad or chips and salsa. Mostly hot items, the choices vary
from ham and melted mozzarella to turkey and avocado. However, the
roasted eggplant with mozzarella leaves much to be desired. Even
vegetarians may not enjoy this delicacy. In spite of the fresh Nova
bread and steaming, stringy cheese, the eggplant is bland without
any real flavor.
As for the beverages, a lot of choices are available to cover
different cravings. In the mood for a hot beverage? The espresso
bar offers single and double shots of the traditional coffee fare –
latte, mocha, cappuccino, etc. There are also specialty drinks such
as an Italian soda ($2.25), which is carbonated water with a
flavored syrup, which add a nice twist as well. A customer can
choose from fruity flavors like blueberry and raspberry or almond
and hazelnut. Chocolate mint syrup combined with the carbonation
leaves a cool aftertaste.
On the other side of the beverage spectrum, the cafe also serves
fresh fruit smoothies. Choices of fruit include banana,
strawberries, blueberries, peach and cantaloupe or a mixture of all
five fruits ($3.15 to $3.50). If the strawberry smoothie is any
indication, these shakes are good for quenching thirst but the
consistency is thin, not creamy. However, the fresh strawberry
taste is still apparent. Freshness is one quality upheld throughout
the menu.
Desserts are the same conventional goodies served at other
coffee places – chocolate cake, cheesecake, carrot cake, biscotti
and pre-purchased cookies ($3.25).
For anyone who feels the need to escape the world of Westwood in
the dead of night or the wee hours of the morning, especially after
a long week of classes, Nova Express Cafe serves as the ideal spot.
With its mouth-watering pizza and cozy nooks and crannies, the cafe
makes a great magnet for the college crowd.
HENRY YANG
The Nova Express is a science-fiction-themed pizza cafe in
Hollywood.