“When was the last time you had cream soda or root beer from a tap?” reads a sign on the wall of Westwood’s The Stand, the latest addition to the Encino Valley hot dog chain. The Stand, fashioned in the vein of an early 20th century diner, transports its customers to a simpler era through the timeless culinary medium of the hot dog.
The Stand invites customers to build their own hot dogs, starting with a base (beef, turkey, kosher or “big red,” which is spicy) and working up to the toppings (ranging from deli mustard to bleu cheese). Those wishing to bypass the responsibility of creating their own dog may choose from a list of classics compiled by The Stand. Popular items include the Chicago Dog and Chili Dog, and each meal is served up with a side of freshly baked potato chips.
The Stand does offer alternatives to hot dogs, though these, too, fall under the category of American classics: hamburgers, sandwiches and chili.
Customers order at the front counter, where servers are known to offer friendly suggestions and address customers as “Boss” with casual intimacy.
Decked out in warm brown and cream tones, the diner’s interior design echoes the comfortable ease of the employees. Framed excerpts of the menu adorn the walls in vintage lettering, along with winking glossy cartoon figures.
Nondescript plastic squeeze bottles, distinguishable from each other only by their red and yellow shades, sit atop checkered tablecloths and link The Stand to other generations of diners.
In spite of sharing a theme with predecessors, The Stand escapes sterile commodification as just another nostalgic diner. The restaurant feels less like Johnny Rockets and more like a place “where everybody knows your name.”
The music selection may seem strange at first: a scattered collection that includes Chubby Checker and the theme from “Flashdance.” But this, too, contributes to the inviting atmosphere of the restaurant. The array of iconic songs delivers satisfaction to those sentimental folks who long to hear a Beatles song on the radio again, or who secretly listen to KOST-FM at night.
All-American desserts follow All-American hot dogs in generous portions, with traditional favorites such as apple cobbler and brownie sundae. The apple cobbler is a particularly faithful presentation of the classic. Served a la mode on a plate, the crispy crumb crust is a fitting complement to the pleasingly gooey baked fruit.
The Stand seems to recognize that a classic does not require too many frills and embellishments ““ just a dedication to delivering the formula in its highest form. So long as people demand a juicy hot dog with enough tasty toppings to fall apart, The Stand will be serving them.
““ Colleen Koestner
E-mail Koestner at ckoestner@media.ucla.edu.