Monday, October 14, 1996
FOOD:
Cheerful clutter and delicious pastries make for cozy hangoutBy
Vanessa VanderZanden
Daily Bruin Contributor
Saltwater-worn wooden cutouts of coffee cups, smoothies, and a
bi-level airplane junkily decorate what at first glance seems the
site of a rickety, old barn. If it weren’t for the life-sized
plaster cow peeking out from the staircase window, one might never
realize that this mish-mash of down-home, sea-side art marks the
entrance to The Cow’s End Cafe, a unique L.A. eatery a few blocks
up from the ocean.
Once inside, sweets, treats and goodies beckon from the cozily
cramped counter nearby. Such delicacies include the Poppy Seed
Lemon Cake, a moist combination of thick, sugary icing and spongy
cake, and their Raspberry Bar, a thick layer of raspberry preserves
between a chewy dough base and crispy top. Other items include a
rich array of nonfat muffins and cakes, all of which come from the
private kitchen of the owner’s bake-happy friend.
Continuing down the counter, a refrigerated portion houses
countless smoothie toppings. All forms of fruit, vegetable and
candy ingredients overflow from the cold cabinet, screaming to be
added to a frothy drink. Some suggested concoctions include the
Bora Bora, Banana Banger, and Venice, with long lists of flavorings
as unique as their names.
Behind the colorful counter rests a wall lined with jars of
exotic coffee beans and tea leaves. Ten different coffee selections
are offered a day, while the tea canisters remain filled with
mystical varieties like Jamaica Flower and Yogi Tea Egyptian
Licorice. For only $1, a cup of dark brew is available with free
refills. And, though $2.65 may be a bit steep for a latte, the
espresso drinks are at least as good as any found at established
chain cafes. However, the hot chocolate tops all competitors as the
creamy beverage is served with mounds of whipped cream, swirled in
rich, gourmet chocolate.
But what makes The Cow’s End truly worthwhile rests at the top
of the shabbily carpeted stairs. Here, a loft filled with weathered
couches, mismatched antique chairs, and chipped coffee tables
provides a homey atmosphere that encourages customers to mingle.
Corrugated aluminum siding acts as a partial wallpaper to the
bright yellow, red, blue and green paint which sweeps between
mirrors and windows in wide, unsteady strokes. Paintings of nudes
and flowers and cattle find their way into the jumble, while a
wicker lampshade not unlike the one that used to hang in mom’s
kitchen dangles unobtrusively over a nearby pool table. A rare
touch is found in a chess board table which situates itself
directly under a strange corner doorway, so that the two players
must stare each other down from what essentially is two, tiny
doorless nooks. And, just to ensure no boredom could ever be
encountered in this Real World-esque loft, books ranging from
classics like "The Last of the Mohicans" to avant-garde poetry in
"Molested By the Roses" fill every barren space of the room’s dusty
shelves.
Other reading material exists in abundance back on the first
floor, where a huge magazine stand stocks titles for all kinds of
Cow’s End customers. Along with film periodicals for the mainstream
movie star regulars, English music mags and Italian fashion
glossies entice the large number of foreign visitors, while
standard teen varieties and car monthlies lure the average Joe.
Even homeless people feel comfortable mingling at The Cow’s End,
though perhaps the best indication of the relaxed atmosphere can be
found in the patronage of Alcoholics Anonymous members who
socialize here every Tuesday night.
This cross-section of L.A. society is most evident when exiting
through the cafe’s wooden door, as the sound of anything from
reggae to calm, soulful renditions by "Everything But the Girl"
flow out into the street. Here, small tables cram the sidewalk,
dogs rest on leashes and a vibrant mixture of post-dinner couples
chat about politics. The lights from The Cow’s End Cafe shine
brightly on through the windows, hoping to attract an even more
diverse group of coffee-sipping customers.
SHAWN LAKSMI
Jennifer Kreuzberger working at The Cow’s End Cafe in Venice
Beach, which is located at 34 Washington Blvd.