Monday, March 3, 1997
RESTAURANT:
New cafe features pleasing ambiance, vegetarian fareBy Cecily
Fetham
Daily Bruin Contributor
Meat-eatin’ folk might freak out at the phrase "Hummus
sandwich," but those more experienced in the search for non-animal
protein might immediately recognize how delightful such a combo
might be. And it is delightful, as is the entire atmosphere of Love
and Serve, the new vegetarian cafe where you can walk in and get
"Neatloaf" and inner peace for $6.50.
It’s obviously its own realm, with its own lingo and
soul-soothing decor. Innovative creations like the "Veggie Joe"
($4.50), a meatless version of its mainstream cousin "Sloppy," fill
the menu, which is relatively small but growing as customers give
their input. The creative yet calm vibe pervades, and this spirit
is one in which patrons’ comments are more than welcomed. It’s
decidedly more a lunchtime and mid-afternoon snack kind of place
than anything else, but the number of heartier "specialities," like
curried vegetables, is increasing.
Ganesh, a multi-armed, elephant-faced Indian deity, hangs
masterfully above the refrigerated beverages, and small plant life
sits in simple clear vases. The ceiling is wonderfully high and
painted sky blue; the back of the cafe is divided into two stories,
and students wanting to study can escape upstairs with a bowl of
Creamy Yam soup ($3.00). (Again: "creamy yam." The sound of it
could weird some people out. But it’s all about exploration.)
Breathe in, breathe out. Feel the good karma.
A significant contribution to the ambiance is the work of peace
leader and artist Sri Chimnoy; his books adorn the walls; his
written and performed music fills the room; his thoughts are framed
in various spots. ("The atom has taught me that the little things
do count … most." he says.) Deep stuff by which to eat Tofini,
which is, wink-wink, "egg salad."
But Sri Chimnoy is everywhere, because without Sri Chimnoy,
there would be no Love and Serve.
In 1969, Sri Chimnoy went to one of his students, Premananda,
and told him to build a restaurant. Premananda, whose name means
"love and bliss," began setting up locations in Connecticut and
eventually, 28 years later, worked himself over to Westwood. At all
of his restaurants good food is supposed to lead to good spirit and
no one will ever receive an end-crust piece of bread on their
sandwich.
Taking all that into consideration, it’s not hard to believe
that their "P.L.B." stands for peace, light and bliss in a bun.
The food is good and makes customers feel like eating healthy.
Dave, an employee who served me the Neatloaf, promised that it was
"one of the best things ever made in creation." That’s a bit much,
as seeing the "tangy" sauce covering it might disturb the delicate
stomach, but the taste and texture were interesting in a good way.
Filling. And if you’re a vegetarian who thought that gravy was no
longer an option in your life, there’s no longer a need to go
without it. Mushroom gravy. Who knew?
In the event that you’re a carnivore, don’t be afraid. Some
might see the rice bran syrup and soya granules and try to quietly
back out of the room as inconspicuously as possible. But Lovell
Sevilla, a UCLA grad and a meat-eater, thoroughly enjoyed the Love
and Serve avocado and cheese sandwich. Of the bread, she said,
"Ooh. Looks good. Lots of seeds." She continued, "I would come here
again. I don’t normally think about going to vegetarian restaurants
 you see the sign and think your options are gonna be
limited. But this is great."
It turns out that Dave, who had highly recommended the Neatloaf,
also guides meditation sessions. This says so much about Love and
Serve’s mission  it’s not just culinary. Dave explains,
"Usually it takes six months to a year for a restaurant to really
get going. But with us, it’s only taken about two months." He feels
the positive spirit entered the place sometime during construction
and it hasn’t left since. It’s been cosmic, he says, with customers
actually coming up to the counter and asking how they could help
spread the love.
Take part in the love. Transcend self-imposed limitations. And
don’t take the "cookie" part of the non-dairy carob chip cookie
title too seriously.
In the words of Dave, "Love and Serve is more than food. It’s a
vibe."
CHARLES KUO/Daily Bruin
Claudia Rosado (left) and Prema Jackson prepare fresh vegetarian
entrees Tuesday morning for the lunch crowd.