Monday, October 21, 1996
RESTAURANT:
Trattoria offers authentic Italian dining experienceBy Vanessa
VanderZanden
Daily Bruin Contributor
Lusty Italian voices spill out into the beachy side street
entrance to the C & O Trattoria. As wine glasses clink, the
words to Dean Martin’s classic song, "That’s Amore" surge forth
from the robust bellies of waiters and customers alike in the
restaurant’s nightly sing-a-long. And, since the ceiling consists
merely of a retractable blue tarp, you can actually let the "moon
hit your eye like a big pizza pie."
Clearly, the C & O Trattoria specializes in creating
merriment. Festive seasonal decorations adorn the white
lattice-sided walls along with multi-colored plates, crafted by a
local artist. Fresh daisies and chrysanthemums in blue water
bottles decorate each table, which is covered by a
pseudo-sophisticated black and white checkered tablecloth. The
upscale clientele, dressed mostly in semi-casual attire, seems to
be largely Italian, which says a lot for the authenticity of the C
& O’s meals.
But the food speaks for itself, starting with the appetizers.
Enhanced by a squeeze of lemon, the fried squid platter becomes
almost a meal on its own when dipped into the chunky marinara
sauce. Even more of a treat is the abundance of garlic-yeast rolls,
baked fresh every 10 minutes, arriving hot to the table courtesy of
the speedy waiters. An added touch to the sparkling service and
festive atmosphere is the chianti. This house red wine overflows
from self-serve taps at the sides of the restaurant.
C&O keeps the bill low by allowing any minor adjustment to
the menu free of charge. All forms of pasta, from angel hair to
penne, spaghetti to fettuccine, make a hearty appearance on the
lengthy menu. Particularly delicious is the Fusilli, Roasted
Eggplant which includes gorgonzola, pine nuts, roasted pepper and a
thick layer of cream over the entire platter of corkscrew noodles.
With flavor that is neither too spicy nor too subtle, the entire
combination tastes zesty and leaves the stomach feeling a good deal
heavier.
Another fine choice is the rigatoni with tomato-cream sauce,
sweet basil, garlic and a small serving of extra virgin olive oil.
This option can only be topped by the addition of fresh parmesan,
which the waiters willingly grate over any plate. However, a half
serving of these entrees will probably be sufficient, since a full
helping, served in a gargantuan bowl, would be enough for two
people.
And, even though the bread rolls keep coming and the pasta and
red wine have already left considerable stretch marks on your
burgeoning stomach, you should never pass on dessert. The tiramisu,
a richly layered delicacy of mascarpone cheese, espresso coffee,
and lady fingers, comes smothered in whipped cream and chocolate
sauce. However, no one flavor swamps the others, as sometimes
happens with tiramisu. Also delicious, though not outstanding, is
the fruit torte, with glazed kiwi, strawberry and peach slices
adorning the top of the doughy pastry. A latte makes an admirable
companion to these sweet treats, though it doesn’t stand out as a
particularly spectacular cup of java.
Still, service from the starched, white-shirted waiting team
couldn’t be better, as no one wait-person claims lord over your
table. Any server will accommodate your dining needs with style and
charisma. For larger groups, they’ll deliver a bottle of chianti to
the center of the eating arena, and even sing "Happy Birthday" in
Italian to any aging diner. Such musical selections seem almost
superfluous as an array of accordion-happy Italian tunes fill the
room and follow customers to their cars, where they hold their
bellies and groan happily.
AMY PENG
Waitress Leslie Schaffer toasts with customers while the whole
restaurant sings "That’s Amore" at C & O Trattoria in Marina
Del Rey.