Photos by Scott B. Wong Mopeding in Interlaken,
Switzerland with waterfalls and the Alps overhead.
By Scott B. Wong
Daily Bruin Staff Backpacking in Europe is hard work. But if you
plan well, are flexible, and possess a sense of adventure, it can
be extremely rewarding. For those who do wish to tough it out on
the road, here is some advice about what to bring, where to go, and
how to make the best of your backpacking experience.
Planning the trip A month should give you
enough time to survey Western Europe. Last summer, I traveled
with my brother during June and July, backpacking through 15 cities
in nine countries. Before leaving, plan a route ““
decide which cities you want to see and how long you want to spend
in each. Consider timing too: in midsummer, tourists consume Europe
and the south tends to get extremely hot and muggy, so travel early
if you dislike large crowds or the heat. Many backpackers tackle
Europe in a counter-clockwise loop starting from Paris. Originating
in London, we chose to travel in the opposite direction so we could
run with the bulls in Spain during the third week of the trip. A
strong, supportive backpack is extremely important, since
you’ll be carrying about 20-30 lbs, sometimes for hours at a
time. I recommend purchasing one with an internal frame, thick
shoulder pads, and a waist-belt to absorb some of the weight. The
pack should have a capacity of 4,000-5,000 cubic inches
 Photos by Scott B. Wong With rolled newspapers in hand,
runners offer a prayer to San Fermin, the patron saint of Pamplona,
minutes before the running of the bulls. Brand-name packs such as
Northface, Eagle Creek and Gregory are quite expensive, ranging
from $200-350, but a good pack may be a good investment if you plan
to travel later on. A rolling suitcase may become problematic when
trying to conquer a flight of stairs in a crowded train station.
Sport Chalet and REI are good places to start your search.
In Europe, the extensive European train system virtually
connects every city, making inter-city travel convenient. Buy
a train pass before you leave for Europe ““ it’s
cheaper. STA Travel in Westwood sells a variety of passes, but the
most popular is the Europass (10-day second-class youth pass,
$370), which allows travel to Spain, France, Switzerland, Germany
and Italy for any 10 days over two months. Add an associated
country, like Greece or the Benelux (Brussels, Netherlands, and
Luxembourg), for $45. Travel on the train at night. You’ll
miss the scenery, but won’t need to book a hostel for those
nights or waste your limited days in Europe stuck on a train. If
you pay the extra $15-20 for a couchette, a sleeper compartment,
you’ll be able to get some much-needed rest. In order to get
student discounts in Europe for transportation, museums, and some
hostels, purchase an International Student Identity Card at a
travel agency for $22. Consider where you want to arrive and depart
from. I wanted to fly into London and out of Paris to avoid having
to pay twice for the Eurostar ““ the high-speed train that
travels between London, Paris and Brussels via the Chunnel, the
underground tunnel through the English Channel. But a round trip
from San Francisco to Heathrow Airport in London was cheapest. Book
early. A round-trip ticket during the peak summer season costs
around $1,000, according to United Airlines. The Eurostar costs $80
each way for youth fare. Even before getting on the plane, pick up
a good travel guide that will provide you with basic information
about each city. I bought the “Lonely Planet Western
Europe” guide ($25.95), which provided a lot of information
about the history and customs of these countries, but wasn’t
much help when it came to locating a place to stay. The
“Let’s Go Western Europe” guide ($22.99) is
probably the most popular guide book for backpackers, because their
hostel listings are always booked. “Rick Steve’s Europe
through the Backdoor” ($19.99) is also a good bet.
 Photos by Scott B. Wong The view of the red-tiled roofs
of Prague and the Charles Bridge from the Communications Tower.
What to pack One thing to remember is
you’ll be traveling to very populated cities, which means
that even if you forget to pack something, you’ll most likely
be able to buy it. Pack light. Because you are backpacking, you
probably aren’t going to need any nice evening wear, so put
away those high heels. Do bring a good pair of walking shoes. I
brought hiking boots, but all I really needed were some comfortable
tennis shoes. There will be laundry machines in the cities and in
some hostels, but I’ll be the first to admit I didn’t
always wake up every morning with clean clothes to wear. In a month
of travel, we had a couple run-ins with pickpockets, but the money
belt (Eagle Creek, $20), worn inside of our pants or shorts,
ensured the cash, traveler’s checks, passport, and Europass
stayed in our sole possession.
Where to Stay Youth hostels ““available
for those aged 26 and under”“ can be the most memorable part
of the backpacking experience. Each has its own feel and its own
character. Hostels, or pensions, in Europe are generally either a
private or communal room, ranging from $10-25 a night. In
Amsterdam, Anna’s hostel provided bunk-beds in a co-ed room
with about 20 other backpackers. But in Prague’s Pension
Norska, we shared our room with just one other person. For the
hostels that accept them, make reservations before you arrive in
the city, because vacancies fill up fast, or check in during the
morning when backpackers are likely to be leaving. Remember, if
worse comes to worst, you can always rent a hotel room.
Where to go Keep in mind, my brother and I
traveled on a rigorous pace through Europe with the intention of
seeing as many cities as possible given the time allotted. Some
travelers like to race through Europe, while others prefer a slower
pace. Be a tourist: see the Eiffel Tower, ride a gondola through
Venice canals, and watch Shakespeare in the Globe Theatre, but also
tailor your trip to specific things you want to see and do. Here
are just some places that made my trip unforgettable. Amsterdam was
everything I heard it would be ““ the smell of free-flowing
marijuana from corner cafes, neon signs for sex shows and
prostitutes propositioning tourists from Red Light District
windows. On the other side of town is the Van Gogh Museum, which
houses the largest collection of the artist’s work, including
a series of self-portraits. From Amsterdam, it was 10 hours east to
Berlin on an overnight train. Although completely under
reconstruction, Berlin still remains in the shadows of its eerie
past. I enjoyed the Insider’s historical walking tour through
the city, where we visited standing portions of the Berlin Wall and
the site above the bunker where Adolf Hitler poisoned and shot
himself. Take the S-bahn metro up to Olympic Stadium, the site of
the 1936 Olympics, where U.S. runner Jesse Owens took home four
gold medals as Hitler looked on. Join 1.5 million people for the
Love Parade, an international techno dance-party during the July 8
weekend. Prague was one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.
Because the Czech Republic is not covered by the Europass, you must
pay an extra $5 when you purchase the ticket to get from the Czech
border to the city center. The rumors of cheap food and beer in
Prague are true. A four-course meal only costs a few bucks, and a
liter of Czech-brewed Pilsner beer only a quarter.
 Photos by Scott B. Wong Rio Maggiore, the last of
“Five Towns” along the Italian coast in Cinque Terra.
Take the four-hour hike between all five hidden coastal gems. Next,
we headed for Switzerland rather than Austria. Vienna would simply
take us too far off-track, and the outdoor sports Mecca of Europe,
Interlaken, situated “between lakes,” as its name
suggests, was the perfect break from city life.
We booked a room at Heidi’s, a quiet, family-owned hostel
run by a sweet old lady. Balmer’s and Funny Farm are two
popular Swiss hostels jam-packed with backpackers that have
hoppin’ bars at night. Sports range from paragliding to lake
and river sports, but for a steep price. We tried canyoning (Alpin
Raft and Sports, $60), where guides took a group of us down a river
via natural water slides, rappeling down cliffs, and jumping off
waterfalls. Rent a moped and spend a day riding through green
meadows with the snow-capped Alpines towering above. Park and hike
along the waterfalls at Lauterbaum and the ice caves near
Grindelwald resort village ““ the view is absolutely heavenly.
When in Italy, eat gelato ““ perfect in the summer heat. Lose
yourself in the streets, canals and marketplaces of Venice. In
Florence, see Michelangelo’s original David statue in the
Galleria dell’Accademia, which with the Uffizi, can have
horrendous summer lines. A 30-minute bus ride up the mountain to
Fiesole is well worth the panoramic view of Florence and greater
Tuscany. Further south, the heat of Rome becomes simply unbearable,
and often debilitating for summer travelers. We found relief in
neighboring Vatican City, inside St. Peter’s Basilica and the
Vatican Museum, home to the Sistine Chapel. Off the beaten path,
discover Cinque Terra, which translates as “Five
Towns.” These pastel-colored fishing villages situated in the
rocky cliffs of the Italian Riviera have recently become a
backpacker’s hot spot. Along with our roommate from Venice,
we stayed one night in Rio Maggiore, the last of the five towns.
Take the train to the first town Monterosso and hike a hundred feet
above the sea along the coastal trail which connects all five
villages. Take caution while in Cinque Terra ““ many travelers
are lured by the beauty of these coastal castles and never want to
leave. In Spain, visit Pamplona. The culmination of my trip was the
“Encierro,” or running of the bulls, in this northern
Spanish town, where the parties and the bar scenes don’t end
until morning. The tradition happens every morning at 8 a.m. during
las Fiestas de Sanfermin (July 6-14), spans the course of 800
meters of cobblestone, and concludes in the bull-ring, where the
same bulls will fight later that evening. We arrived in Pamplona at
6 a.m. on an overnight from Barcelona, and were on the course
within an hour. The run is free and there is no waiver to risk life
and limb against the charging horned-beasts, which weigh in excess
of 600 kilos. As you set off on your journey, remember that
backpacking in Europe may not guarantee a vacation. If rest and
relaxation is all you seek, my advice is to book a tour.