Lined with crowds clamoring for their regular fix of Japanese food and merchandise, Sawtelle Boulevard is home to countless restaurants that specialize in quality Asian cuisine. The street, also known as Little Osaka, is known for its numerous ramen restaurants that deliver hot, steaming bowls of noodles and broth in every combination of flavors and toppings imaginable.
However, traditional ramen broth is usually meat-derived, which is a problem for vegetarians and vegans wishing to expand their palates. This week, columnists Shreya Aiyar and Regina Napolitano go on a quest for ramen and compare the options at two Sawtelle restaurants, Chabuya Tokyo Noodle Bar and Tatsu Ramen.
A&E; contributor
saiyar@media.ucla.edu
Chabuya Tokyo Noodle Bar’s petite storefront patio is dwarfed by the large neighboring restaurants battling for space on either side. But enter the restaurant and Chabuya transforms into a cozy noodle bar that, by virtue of the maroon paint and modern hanging lights, transported me to a cozy Japanese cafe for the hour I spent there.
Chabuya was almost empty when our group arrived and we were seated immediately. Glancing at the menu, there appeared to be no meatless option, but a closer look rewarded us with a cheaper vegetarian miso ramen option in a small size.
While taking our order, the waitress must have noticed that we were confused vegetarians with not many options, because she kindly recommended the authentic vegetarian ramen, an apparently off-menu item that consisted of spinach noodles and assorted vegetables in a broth made from a seaweed and vegetable base, which costs about $7 with tax. We ordered both in the small size.
Upon arrival, the vegetarian ramen was steaming and the bowl was filled to the brim with golden brown broth. My first taste of the noodles and broth was less than spectacular – the entree came only lukewarm and wasn’t as hot as the copious amounts of steam suggested.
Apart from the initial disappointment, however, the meal redeemed itself in flavor and substance. The broth had a delicate savory flavor that wasn’t too salty, and the garlic flakes that topped the dish added a wonderfully pungent crunch. My co-columnist received the vegetarian miso ramen, but the miso broth didn’t appear to be as light as my vegetarian ramen broth.
The noodles topped off the experience beautifully – the subtle hints of spinach and tender consistency complemented the boiled vegetables well. I asked the server about the noodles, and she replied that it is possible to choose from the three types of noodles – spinach, thick and thin – in any entree for more variety.
Overall, the vegetarian ramen left me satisfied and happy, and I felt full even though I ordered a small size. If your outing takes you past Sawtelle Boulevard and you crave comfort food sans the guilt, Chabuya is worth the trip.
A&E contributor
rnapolitano@media.ucla.edu
The first thing I noticed about Tatsu Ramen was the three iPads hanging on the wall. I had been forewarned that at this restaurant customers placed their orders not through people but through machines.
Even though ordering off the iPad was a bit weird and confusing, the ramen at Tatsu was so delicious that I would happily experience the shop’s unique and slightly chaotic ordering procedure again.
The only vegetarian option at Tatsu is naked ramen, so-called because the dish is served without broth. Don’t let the ramen’s lack of broth deter you though; the noodles, breadcrumbs, tofu, egg, garlic, green onions, chilies and seaweed in this dish expertly comingle to create a crunchy, spicy and sweet explosion of flavor.
Firstly, I would like to wax poetic about the best hard-boiled egg I have ever eaten. The egg was fully cooked, but the yolk had an outer ring of orange and was still soft. You can actually order the dish without an egg, but that would be an egregious error unless you are a vegan.
I would also like to serve Tatsu’s fantastic tofu to anyone who believes the terrible lie that tofu is flavorless. The sweet soy product was stacked among the noodles in rectangles, with a slightly crispy outer, light brown layer.
The noodles were perfectly al dente, and the breadcrumbs and garlic made the whole dish delightfully crispy.
The meal was well worth its $9 price and the $1 two-way bus fare needed to get to Sawtelle. Tatsu’s ramen is so good that this week’s column is practically a love letter to it.