Wednesday, February 17, 1999
Vegetarian heaven provides real food at good prices
RESTAURANT: Tasty fare, generous portions make conscientious
eating fun
By Vanessa VanderZanden
Daily Bruin Staff
Salmon will thank you. Chickens will clap their wings for you.
Even cows will moo in your honor.
Great. You’ve decided to go vegetarian and become one with the
creatures of the earth. But the support you receive from your
fellow animals is not echoed by the proprietors of eating
establishments across Los Angeles.
While you scan the menu of one restaurant after the next,
searching for something more filling and appetizing than Caesar
salad, the game becomes a bit old. Will no one feed you and look
out for the environment at the same time?
But wait, here comes Real Food Daily to save the day.
Serving a wide variety of wholesome, meatless dishes, this
vegetarian restaurant offers delicious meals in style. Located at
414 La Cienega Blvd., the chic venue stands out from the plethora
of cafes and eateries lining the stretch known as Restaurant Row.
The bright, wide-windowed spot has tables set up street-side as
well as in its spacious interior, accommodating patrons from 11:30
a.m. to 11:00 p.m. daily.
At first glance, the modern interior resembles a wooden ocean,
as carved, light brown waves dip down from the ceiling and booths
at the three corners of the space lie within swirling, vortical,
pine-backed encasements. Copper-plated tables with red-padded,
black-lacquered chairs dot the well-lit room, while huge, red
flower arrangements provide more color from the walls. Friendly
food servers dart quickly between the dining area and the round
kitchen space, which remains partially visible through light green
plexi-glass windows at the core of the space.
From here, food and drinks flow in a constant, steady, swift
current as smooth as the juices they blend. The pricey beverages
come in small varieties for $3.25, larges for $3.95. The Red Head
has a beety bite against a subtle carrot and celery base, smelling
somewhat like a freshly mowed lawn. The more flavorful Heaven and
Earth, with its sweet, apple tang, mediates the taste of the pulpy
carrot shreddings.
While the menu overflows with appetizers, salads, add-ons and
desserts, a simple entree provides more than sufficient eating for
one night. A full list of specials and soups unique to each day of
the week fills the three-page program. However, sticking with the
tried and true, everyday offerings provides an equally tempting
selection of satisfying treats.
The hearty Salisbury Seitan, for $10.25, is comprised of two
tender, Southern influenced, baked "wheat meat" cutlets,
indistinguishable from cooked animal flesh, doused in a succulent,
light brown gravy. It comes with two chunky, solid balls of mashed
potatoes and a large serving of shredded Caesar salad. The dish is
perfect for any red-blooded American uninterested in a bloody,
red-meat diet.
The Black Bean Tostadas, for $9.25, take the cuisine south of
the border. The two thin, crispy, baked corn tortillas lie beneath
a bed of well- cooked Spanish rice, not gooey or hard, that bears
no trace of tomato. Black beans, tofu and a thin layer of sour
cream cover this base, while fresh lettuce coats the top. A side of
zesty carrot salsa, sprinkled with tangy cilantro, rests next to
the dish at one end, while a serving of chunky, homemade guacamole
calls to hungry diners at the other edge of the huge tostada.
For those more adventurous at heart, the Seasonal Special (a
vegetable pot pie), for $10.75, gives customers a choice of unusual
side dishes. Two of the strangest are Sea Veggies ($3.50 when
ordered separately), and Millet and Quinoa ($2.95 on its own). The
sea veggies are a salty, needly clump of thin, black, sea-weedy
leaves which have the aftertaste, some say, of a wet dog. However,
they add a bizarre kick to the bland millet, which tastes like a
more mealy, dryer version of couscous.
Yet, both basics seem of little consequence next to the dense
slice of warm, vegetable pot pie which lies at the heart of the
order. The whole wheat crust has a thick, doughy texture with
crunchy edges, surrounding a celery, potato and corn-based center.
Topped with a scrumptious squiggle of dill dressing, the filling
pie feels like something Mom wishes she could boast in her
repertoire of soothing winter dishes.
Although the prices leave the wallet a little slim, the
wholesome food leaves the belly quite full. And, while the trendy
atmosphere doesn’t quite match the down-home quality of the solid
dishes, it does fit the attitude of most upper-end La Cienega store
fronts. And, just as the venue looks slick and spotless, the body
feels cleansed, energized and well-suited for a night on the
town.
Rating : 7
Real Food Daily, is located at 414 La Cienega Blvd. Open 11:30
a.m. to 11:00 p.m. daily. For more info, call (310) 289-9910 or
visit their website at www.realfood.com.
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