Wednesday, February 19, 1997
CAFES:
Late-night dives tempt hungry night owls with low-priced foodsBy
Vanessa VanderZanden
Daily Bruin Contributor
The bars and clubs have closed, and all of the bands have played
their last set. The big-city night life continues to pump in
club-goers’ veins, but a little refueling would help. It’s time to
visit one of West L.A.’s unique late-night eateries, catering to
the after-hours crowds. It’s more than a post-midnight snack
though. The atmosphere of any one of these spots is an experience
in itself.
Perhaps one of the most eccentric of these sits on Sunset
itself. Embedded between Guitar Heaven and Sunset Records, Toi Thai
serves large portions of light, fresh Thai food until 4 in the
morning, with no minimum charge. A decent meal costs between $5 and
$8, attracting a 3 a.m. rush hour of band members just getting off
from gigs in the area. However, the true appeal of this sleek
hangout rests in its diggy, aesthetic charm.
This dark cafe greets customers with the spiked, glistening
teeth of a giant dragon made of metal insulation piping and black
tubing looming from the far ceiling.
The shadowy walls of the two-room complex bear the designs of
everything from vintage band and cult movie posters to a giant,
abstract mural painted by the owner himself. Chairs range in style
from cheetah-skin couches to bar stools to pillows, which
accommodate customers seated at a short, cloisonne-inlaid coffee
table.
Similarly, the huge ’70s lamps which adorn the tables produce
dim red lighting, matching the mood of the ambient music and the
flash of color emanating from classic films aired on televisions in
opposing corners. Even the bathroom and its corridor live up to the
beatnik flare, suffocated in rich oil paints from floor to
ceiling.
Located at 7505 1/2 W. Sunset Blvd., Toi Thai will gracefully
wind down even the most hyperactive of evenings. Call (213)
874-8062 for more information.
Across the street from Toi Thai, Grounds Zero coffeehouse and
deli harkens to a more gothic set. Rustic tables with Victorian
chairs line one wall, whose painted-on cracks and peeling wallpaper
emulate a crumbling, vampire-esque castle. Stained, Archie
Bunker-esque couches point to a tiny stage which takes up a few
feet below the red velvet curtained window next to the front
door.
Here, bands occasionally play around 10 p.m. and on special
evenings, comics perform closer to 8 p.m. The tiny establishment
closes at 2 a.m., but not before customers have a chance to enjoy
hearty sandwiches, canned soup and plenty of coffee and pastries.
Toys, like Triple Yahtzee, a dusty encyclopedia set and a plastic
Fisher Price robot, wait on a chipped wood cabinet to entertain
lounging patrons. At 7554 W. Sunset Blvd., Grounds Zero pumps out
old-school tunes from U2 to Oingo Boingo. Call (213) 874-2261 for
more information.
Stepping up a few levels in the social scene, Caffé Luna on
Melrose Avenue serves Italian dishes at $10 a pop to stylish
trendsetters until 4 in the morning. Stylishly dressed patrons rip
off pieces of delectable focaccia bread, dipping it gingerly into
pools of olive oil. The hip, cutting-edge crowd fits right in with
the classic pop art of the ’20s, which clutters the rust red
walls.
Loud voices radiate throughout the packed room, practically
drowning out the notes of Gloria Estefan and Counting Crows that
purr over the airwaves. Crayons and paper tablecloths for drawing
intensify this lively aura, and the best of customers’ works are
displayed on the back corridor wall. White lights wrap around trees
on the cozy patio outside. Located at 7469 Melrose Ave., Caffé
Luna offers service to all varieties of night owls. Call (213)
655-8647 for more information.
The most diverse cross section of the early-morning set
frequents Canter’s restaurant, delicatessen and bakery on Fairfax.
This humongous three-room complex sees everyone from sequin-clad
ravers to hungry old-timers on a nightly basis. Open 24 hours a
day, the establishment welcomes starving souls with a full pastry
and sweets counter on one side and a Jewish deli counter, complete
with gefilte fish and pickled herring, on the other. Canter’s also
boasts the standard burgers and not-so-standard cigar selection of
any other late-night diner.
The farthest-back room includes a full bar and stage, with walls
plastered by concert shots of the big-name stars who have played
Canter’s along the road to success. Shows begin every night after
10 p.m., varying musical genres from jazz to rock and blues.
However, most after-hours Canter’s patrons visit the deli once the
evening’s excitement has begun to wind down.
Such a variety of customers is the norm for Canter’s, content at
its 419 N. Fairfax Ave. location. Call (213) 651-2030 for more
information.
Just across the street, an entirely different scene unfolds at
the sci-fi adventure spot Café Nova. This darker, smaller
venue serves up everything from waffles to salads but relies on its
pizza and coffee for drawing customers in, right up until its 4
a.m. closing hour. However, even without the food, many would enjoy
Café Nova merely as a work of art.
Stalactites of dripping lava puncture through the ceiling to
create an extraterrestrial surface. A blue bat-winged door
stretches across the length of one wall. The same foamy material
borders a massive window, and a robot waits patiently at the door
beneath various skulls, next to the table chairs which echo those
of the Star Trek control center.
Toward the rear of the cafe, a built-in cabinet provides
dog-eared science fiction novels for the patrons’ enjoyment, as a
black light wreaks havoc in the back corner.
Most patrons wear black and lean close to hear each other’s
muffled voices over dimly lit tables. Chains and hair spikes are
the normal attire here, but every kind of customer is welcome.
This intriguing set of after-hour creatures can be found at
Café Nova, 711 S. Waslee. Call (213) 736-6686 for more
information.
GENEVIEVE LIANG/Daily Bruin
Grounds Zero coffeehouse and deli caters to the after-hours
crowd until 2 a.m.GENEVIEVE LIANG/Daily Bruin
Canter’s restaurant, delicatessen and bakery stays open 24
hours.