Friday, June 5, 1998
Transvestites add spice to dinner
RESTAURANT: Excellent food perfect compliment to exciting
environment
By Vanessa VanderZanden
Daily Bruin Staff
Within the dark heart of the treacherous West Los Angeles
streets, a rare oasis with a full garden terrace awaits. Painted
gold angels beckon from the rich, yet stately, green and purple
neo-classical walls inside. And from between the plaster columns,
echoing against the classy full-wall bar, voices cry out, "Work it,
Diva!"
This elegant restaurant setting plays home to "The Divas of
Trilogy," a drag show which accompanies Trilogy dinners. For a $15
minimum meal/drink charge, one can enjoy the talents of Ines,
Vixen, Cheetah, Casey and Sassy, the long-legged
transvestite-extraordanaires. And although meal prices will
probably exceed the minimum charge, the food alone is worth the
expense.
To start the evening right, a Dragarita is an absolute
requirement. The $15, 46-ounce, tangy, unblended margarita,
arriving on the table with a slice of orange, lime and lemon as
well as a cherry and cocktail umbrella, comes in a margarita glass
the size of a small fish bowl.
"Divas drink them to make their hands look smaller."
By comparison, even the table looks smaller.
A small house salad works as the best way to climb into the
menu. Known as Diva Greens, mixed greens combine with a zesty
balsamic vinagrette, properly whetting the palate. By the time
diners pick at the six-dollar starter, the first installment of the
half-hourly show will have begun.
Ines, the bouffant, curly blonde-haired restaurant owner, dons a
tight black mini dress and lip-syncs to Cher’s "Dark Lady." Next,
Casey, in a furry bodysuit of faux-cheetah skin and tall, black
go-go boots dances a routine to Bette Middler’s "Otto Titsling." "I
Like ‘Em Big and Stupid," sung by Julie Brown, is performed by
Sassy, wearing a boppy jungle print skirt and top.
As the show ends, the main entree arrives from the bold
showgirls themselves, who double as friendly, talkative waitresses.
However, the divas and other waiters never stop moving to the
continuous stream of club dance hits which run over the loud
speakers. The music’s volume allows for steady, audible
conversation, but keeps a high-energy vibe which is reflected in
the smiling faces of the proud employees.
The meals taste as though the divine hands of some blessed
figure has delivered them from another world. They’re absolutely to
die for, basked in seasonings and sauces that mere mortals could
never devise.
The Portabello Napoleon ($14.50) is an absolute taste explosion.
The hearty grilled mushroom arrives on a thick potato pancake with
tender cooked spinach, eggplant and grilled zucchini, covered in
succulently oozing Monterey jack cheese. The spicey flavorings give
the dish an unusual Meditteranean, falafel-esque essence different
from anything ever experienced in a portabello mushroom.
Also a rare and surprisingly nutritious treat is the grilled sea
bass and Thai corncakes ($15.00). Served on a bed of corn, cucumber
chunks and bell pepper bits, the scrumptious morsels of solid fish
find a more perfect union with the corncakes than the standard rice
equivalent at most American restaurants. A sweet, buttery
coconut-milk sauce accents the natural flavorings of the healthy
cuisine.
Though not offered most nights, the Chicken Penne special
($14.95) engages the tastebuds in a cornucopia of rich spices
including garlic, cilantro, basil and peppers. The tender grilled
chicken bites swim in the succulent sauce, sucking up its juices
with gusto. Added to the smooth textured penne pasta, the savory
dish slides over the tastebuds with every ecstatic mouthful.
Soon, the divas are ready for their next act. This time, Vixen
plays the MC, claiming "the more you drink, the prettier we look."
In her portion of the scene, she takes out her false breasts and
juggles them with one hand.
Quite the diva.
Then, all of the divas stand in a row on the stage, shakin’
their things before the mirror. They move out into the audience,
take their position on a box at the foot of one of the columns, and
become a rotating fan of pure divahood. The white candles at each
table flicker as they strut by and pick patrons out of the crowd to
dance with.
Once everyone’s heels have cooled, dessert must be contemplated.
The apple tart ($6.00) expands over the entire entree-sized plate,
with a crust so flakey it almost seems non-existent. Instead, the
dessert disintegrates on the tongue as the fluffy caramel accent
melts over the pastry alongside the smooth scoop of vanilla ice
cream.
Also, both the Creme Brulee ($6.00) and Cocoa Creme Brulee
($7.00) cannot be overlooked. The top layer of caramelized sugar
provides a crunchy contrast to the creamy, mousse-like center. All
selections find a fine compliment in the mellow cappuccino and
delightfully creamy latte.
Done with the satisfying, though thankfully not gut-popping,
meal, one may be lucky enough to catch the diva-ization of those
patrons celebrating birthdays or other special occasions. Moving
towards the open patio door, one can watch the customers dancing
onstage alongside the six-foot-tall glamourpusses who put
natural-born women to shame. As they make a congo line through the
dining room floor, disco music brings a smile and a chuckle to
every diner still working on (or finished with) their
Dragarita.
If we could all just be more like divas, the world might be a
more fabulous place.
MICHAEL ROSS WACHT/Daily Bruin
The Trilogy Drag Cafe is a wake-up call for the ordinary dinner
date.
MICHAEL ROSS WACHT/Daily Bruin
Inez performs a rendition of Cher’s "Dark Lady."