If what comes to mind when you hear “Tofu “˜Meatball’ Plate” is cafeteria-style mystery meat disguised in unappealing gravy slop, think again. gr/eats has you covered with exceptionally tasty fusion fare and even better ambiance and presentation.
The restaurant sister to the Asian American zine publication Giant Robot, gr/eats is one of the many cafe-style restaurants in the Sawtelle district that caters to busy lunch-break rushes.
However, unlike some of the traditional ramen places that litter the busy boulevard, gr/eats is exceptional in its menu’s hodgepodge of cultures: El Salvadoran, Asian and American.
Although there are only six parking spots outside, the fight is worth it. The inside is eclectic and cool, with bright wood floors, dark wood tables, and olive-colored plastic shell chairs that complement, rather than cheapen, the ambiance. An Ai Yamaguchi mural, painted on varied sizes of light wood and scattered on the walls, unifies the decor and gives a nod to Giant Robot’s focus on Asian art and pop culture.
The background music of obscure alternatives and foreign covers plays at the perfect volume for conversation over and about it. My devoted foodie accomplice, Sarah, and I even heard a Japanese cover of the David Bowie song, “Ziggy Stardust.”
Martin Wong and Eric Nakamura, the restaurant owners, co-editors of Giant Robot, and two UCLA alumni, seem to understand the combination of eclectic ambiance, reasonable prices, and surprising variety with gr/eats.
The El Salvadoran-Asian American fused menu includes such familiar dishes as chicken teriyaki, spring rolls, and curry, but also surprises with seafood paella, tofu “meatballs,” and fish tacos. There is something for everyone, as they also serve sandwiches and some pastas and in the evenings have a larger menu that includes udon, curry and donburi (assorted stews served over rice).
There are plenty of vegetarian and vegan options, as well as an array of daily specials of reasonably priced fish ““ wild salmon and wild red perch, among others ““ additional appetizers (vegetable or shrimp tempura), and the soup specials (generally miso and lentil).
The mixed fries appetizer is a pleasant surprise ““ it includes crispy bananas and soft sweet potatoes along with the regular crispy shoestring potatoes.
The tofu meatballs, an acclaimed customer favorite, are nothing like your average vision of rubbery tofu. They have a pleasing texture similar to the North African couscous, but they also include flecks of colorful vegetables and are drizzled with a sweet and sour sauce.
Though the Mayan chicken isn’t spicy, the mild brown mole sauce has plenty of zesty flavors. Both dishes are accompanied by seasoned rice and slightly oily julienne vegetables, which were a little bland but a muted complement to the flavorful entree.
The portions are large enough to satisfy but small enough to save room for the delicious desserts. The restaurant’s winning dessert is the tempura ice cream, which shells a generous scoop of vanilla in an armor of light, warm and crispy tempura batter (plenty to share for two). Other desserts offered are plain vanilla ice cream, soy ice cream with fried banana and apple, and almond jello.
For all its eccentricity in menu choices and decor, gr/eats tries hard ““ sometimes, a little too hard ““ not to neglect the details. The service was attentive but rushed, even though we were the only ones there for a Saturday lunch.
For example, our dessert was accompanied by the bill. However, the elderly waitress was pleasantly bubbly and welcomed all of my curious questions.
If you have a free afternoon and an adventurous spirit or are just craving tofu meatballs, gr/eats truly is a great choice.
E-mail Ramos at kramos@media.ucla.edu