Culinary Connoisseur: Clementine

For a UCLA student, the perfect midday meal is often cheap and convenient. Clementine, located in Century City, offers neither of these qualities. It does, however, offer something most Westwood haunts do not ““ ambience.

Located off a tiny one-way street that runs parallel to bustling Santa Monica Boulevard, the restaurant seems secluded despite being a stone’s throw from traffic and a huge Westfield mall.

It is nestled like a quaint European cafe hidden in the shadows of Los Angeles’ soaring high rises. Still, many aspects of the eatery are quintessential Los Angeles: Its menu changes seasonally, a “Santa Monica Farmers’ Market Cookbook” is perpetually perched on the counter, and the customers ““ those without a puppy or baby in tow ““ look as if they came straight from the gym or the office.

Unlike many L.A. establishments, Clementine is completely unpretentious. The staff is too busy dishing out their “homemade seasonal food” to care about where you fall on the social food chain. The resulting mood creates a perfect place to bring friends, family and out-of-towners for a social lunch or early dinner. The hours (Monday-Friday 7 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.) and limited seating aren’t good for much else ““ only a lame date would have you done eating before the sun sets, and it is typically too crowded to study in comfort.

The fare is similar to other order-at-the-counter-then-fight-for-a-table establishments such as Coral Tree Café or Joan’s on Third. Sandwiches, salads and soups reign supreme with a full assortment of coffee beverages and baked goods to complete the meal.

Because of the seasonal menu, it’s hard to get stuck in a rut or give recommendations, as a favorite item is likely to disappear by the next visit. Throughout the year, Clementine serves up themed menus, extending each concept into an entire experience that includes Web sites, posters and memorabilia.

During April, they celebrated the little-known National Grilled Cheese Month with an elaborately executed “Melt the Vote” campaign that so closely mimicked the presidential election, my roommate thought the menu was a real ballot. Each week, five new cheesy concoctions were offered, with customers voting on their favorites to decide the commander in cheese.

One combination paired roasted asparagus with ricotta, mozzarella, Parmesan and basil on olive bread. Another joined sharp cheddar with ham, chopped olives, mustard and pickles on English muffin bread. To see the extent of the campaign, check out

meltthevote.blogspot.com.

On any given day, you can enjoy sandwiches featuring barbecued chicken, Philly cheesesteak or grilled eggplant, or salads such as Thai steak, Greek or fresh cobb. Clementine finds its strength in the details, pairing basic meats with unique combinations of vegetables and condiments and accenting every sandwich with a splash of lightly briny cucumbers that will forever change your impression of the pickle.

A personal favorite ““ prosciutto with Brie, balsamic onions and arugula on a French baguette ““ skillfully delivers both sweet and salty flavors in a sandwich that will have your mouth wondering if it just visited Rome or Paris.

Clementine surely has its faults. It has limited hours, and at peak times, parking is nonexistent, and you can finish your beverage before your meal hits the table.

Its salad display can look borderline unappetizing and pales in comparison to the spread found at Joan’s on Third.

But there is something intangibly magical about Clementine that drives me time and time again to pay $11 for a sandwich and sometimes splurge for a deliciously soft yet crunchy $3 cookie. I may be getting only $6 worth of food, but I will gladly pay the extra $5 for atmosphere. And that optional space on the receipt for a tip? It’s OK to leave blank. Because, after all, we are still poor college students.

Email Randazzo at srandazzo@media.ucla.edu

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