Food Review: Guelaguetza

Westwood is a perpetual disappointment when it comes to the culinary state of our little village.

What’s most shocking, however, is the lack of anything even resembling authentic Mexican food. Instead we get the standards that dot every corner of every city throughout the country: Chipotle, Taco Bell, Baja Fresh, Rubio’s, Chili’s.

Jose Bernstein’s, the only non-chain of the bunch, isn’t even really Mexican but rather a Judeo-Latin restaurant serving a variety of foods including hamburgers and galbi and kimchi.

It’s a sad state of affairs when an L.A. enclave, so prominent because of UCLA’s existence, doesn’t maintain the rich cultural heritage of the Mexican community that surrounds it. But despite this travesty, there is light in the dark tunnel ““ Guelaguetza, a Oaxacan restaurant not more than a few miles from UCLA.

Oaxaca is one of 31 states comprising all of Mexico, each with its own unique political and, more importantly, culinary tradition. Guelaguetza is one of few truly authentic Oaxacan restaurants in Los Angeles.

However, not everything is great on Guelaguetza’s menu, and the location near UCLA, off Sepulveda at Palms, is subpar. But food-wise, Guelaguetza, hands down, beats any other Mexican restaurant a UCLA student might misguidedly walk into.

What’s good are things with a sweet appeal: Moles, red and black (avoid the less thrilling green or yellow), are king in Oaxaca. Sweet, smoky and rich, the of-the-earth taste will at first surprise and enchant the newcomer. And once the diner finds out that the proprietors bring authentic ingredients, including chocolate, from Oaxaca just to make their deep and soul-satisfying moles, surprise will turn into admiration.

Try the Tamal Oaxaqueño de Mole con Pollo. The smooth yet grainy corn exterior filled with moist and flavorful chicken acts as the perfect stage to experience the mole negro in all its glory. Fortunately, they serve chips saturated in red mole at the beginning of each meal so you will get to try both.

The Ensalada de Nopalitos, a cold cactus dish, is also very nice. Its slightly sweet and sour flavor cuts through the richness of the moles with ease.

There are also multiple authentic beverages to be found at Guelaguetza.

Most notable is the horchata, and this isn’t your high-fructose corn syrup-laden stuff you usually find.

No, instead the Horchata con Tuna y Nuez at Guelaguetza is a sweet rice drink, made using cactus puree, chopped nuts, diced cantaloupe and just a touch of cinnamon. It is a wholly different experience than one may be used to.

And, if available, try the Agua de Guayaba, a seasonal guava drink.

Guelaguetza isn’t the end-all-be-all Mexican restaurant, but it surely is something more authentic, unique and, frankly, delicious than anything offered in Westwood.

So if the mood strikes you, try Guelaguetza and be your own judge ““ they have everything including tacos and grasshoppers.

““ Jonathan Newman

E-mail Newman at jnewman@media.ucla.edu.

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