The perfect hamburger ““ a delicate balance of unadulterated meatiness and thoughtfully chosen toppings, encapsulated in an unassuming yet substantial bun, ready to absorb all the meat’s natural juices ““ is an elusive creature. Many claim to have it, and rumors on the gastro-blogs of late have been crediting “Father’s Office,” a Santa Monica pub, with the best burger in Los Angeles.
At the humble locale, marked only by an old-school neon sign, entirely suitable for the place’s name, a line of twenty-somethings dotted its facade. Unfortunately, this was only the first of the lines to come.
After waiting fifteen minutes or so, customers checked for the proper 21 years of minimum aging (meat pun intended), were ushered in through the blonde wood doors into a room overcrowded with nobodies acting like somebodies, beers in hand, being careful not to spill on their new Ed Hardy paraphernalia.
Another line waited, as “Father’s Office” offers no table service despite its high-priced menu, which includes the much-talked-about $11 “Office Burger.”
Finally getting the chance, my friend and I ordered two of them. No changes to the burgers were allowed, except the degree of doneness for the meat. In most cases, this type of steadfastness to one’s product is commendable, but surrounded by uninspired all-wood paneling and having waited in line for 30 minutes, I felt little but irritation.
After we placed the order, which also included “Basket of Frites “˜A La Cart'” ““ French fries that come in a miniature shopping cart ““ and two Red Seals, the recommended ale pairing for the burgers, our wait continued, as all the tables and bar stools were filled with the aforementioned nobodies prolonging their exposure as long as possible.
However, when we got the food, our minds were put to ease. Inspecting the burger, I thought it looked quite promising: a medium-rare patty, 3â„4 of an inch thick, moist and done to a nice ruby color, gruyere and bleu cheeses, caramelized onion, applewood bacon compote and arugula, all on a sturdy oval-shaped French roll.
The first bite was heavenly, a wonderful amalgam of juiciness from the meat held in place nicely by the hearty French roll, nuttiness from the gruyere, sweetness from the onions and smokiness from the bacon, all brought into harmony by the peppery arugula and sharp bleu. The beer, although a bit too common considering the extensive selection on tap, was a nice pairing. And the French fries were pretty excellent, as was the garlic parsley aioli that came with them.
After a few bites, however, the initial shock of finally eating wore away and the true flavors of the burger came out, most of which were a little too peppery. And, because it was put on too sparingly, and despite its strong flavor, the bleu cheese became apparent as the linchpin that held the whole experience together. When on the palate, the burger came as close to perfection as possible, but on those bites that held little or no bleu, it was just an above-average, overpriced burger.
All in all, despite high prices, long lines and overcrowding, lackluster decor (other than the neon sign) and the absence of common amenities such as wait service, the food was quite delicious. And judging on that, plus the extensive beer selection, “Father’s Office” is definitely worth a visit.
E-mail Newman at jnewman@a.edu.media.ucl