Chic comfort food may sound like an oxymoron, but visiting the notorious Dolce Group’s restaurant, Ketchup, dissipates any doubts about how to make a slice of mama’s meatloaf and a side of mac ‘n’ cheese sound classy.
Sitting on an upper-story building overlooking West Sunset Boulevard, Ketchup beckons visitors to come hang out in its lounge and restaurant, decorated with modern white leather couches, red glowing orb-shaped lights and pop art featuring tomatoes and ketchup bottles.
Ketchup’s young vibe attracts celebrities and West L.A. hipsters alike. A sit-down restaurant that requires reservations ““ especially on Friday night when the doors open at 6 p.m. ““ eating at Ketchup is not an every-weekend activity for the diner on a student budget. But for a special occasion and an upbeat, lively food experience, Ketchup proves an enticing choice.
Starting with a basket of crunchy breadsticks and soft pretzels in place of the traditional bread basket, visitors have a medium through which to sample a horseradish-infused dijon mustard, a crumbled feta cheese and sun-dried tomato spread, and, of course, the restaurant’s five different types of homemade ketchup: original, mango, chipotle, ranch and maple.
The chipotle’s smoky flavor and the maple’s brown-sugary sweetness make these two items the highlights of the ketchup platter. The mango ketchup proved disappointing as it tasted more like non-spiced mango chutney with a bitter, almost fermented, aftertaste. The ranch and original flavors did not taste like anything out of the ordinary, but it was obvious that these ketchups weren’t just squirted out of a Heinz bottle.
While the breadsticks and pretzels provide an adequate palate to sample the ketchups, a side order of french fries is a must. An order of a “3 some” of Ketchup fries brings three ramekin dishes overflowing with thick garlic parmesan fries, shoestring fries dusted with cayenne pepper and sweet potato fries covered in brown sugar and cinnamon.
The cayenne pepper fries proved not as spicy and flavorful as anticipated, but their light crispy texture nonetheless made them a delectable carrier for the ketchups. The sweet potato fries tasted like thin churros and they were the first of the “3 some” to disappear from the table.
Not only were the fries a funky twist on comfort food, but the entrees were all fresh variations upon American favorites. The sloppy joes, called “Slow on Sunday Morning” and overflowing with melted cheddar cheese on a rustic french bun, were so fresh that the beef and cheese combo melted in my mouth. “Momma’s Meat Loaf,” made from Ketchup’s “special recipe,” tasted like it was spiced with oregano with its herb-filled flavor. However, be prepared to watch your sodium levels skyrocket as everything is heavily salted. The waiters, though, attentively refill water glasses to compensate.
Desserts, unfortunately, came at a steep price. Vanilla bean ice cream, sandwiched between two chocolate-chunk cookies in a glorified Diddy Riese sandwich cost $8, while a glass of Yoo-hoo sets you back $5.
For the diner who wants some novelty but does not want to try anything too out of the ordinary, Ketchup is a fun alternative. Trying the fresh versions of food once reserved for 24-hour diners makes you appreciate American classics without the grease and typical lack of flavor. And after dining on fresh french fries and gourmet sloppy joes, it may be impossible to return to a Denny’s Diner with the same expectations again.
E-mail Cohn at jcohn@media.ucla.edu.