The first time I came to dine at Tuk Tuk, I almost drove right past it. For a restaurant with a name like Tuk Tuk and known for having a vehicle atop the bright red awning at its storefront, I didn’t expect it to be squeezed between an alterations store and a local furniture shop.
Tucked among the chic restaurants that line Pico Boulevard, Tuk Tuk is an eccentric Thai restaurant about 15 minutes from campus.
Named after the three-wheeled motorized rickshaws that are prevalent in Thailand, Tuk Tuk boasts an extensive menu comprised of celebrated Thai dishes like pad thai, satay and glass noodles as well as familiar entrees such as garlic and black pepper beef.
The restaurant opened in 1998, and, with a newly updated look by designer Peter Robertson, the restaurant’s aesthetics are its backbone. Although it is hard to spot from the outside, the restaurant contains an orderly and alluring interior that complements the impressive food presentation.
And in a city with a heightened awareness of environmentalism and conservation, it appears Tuk Tuk has been bitten by the green bug. Its especially dark ambience makes it appear as if the light controls are fixed at their lowest setting.
The dark mood is enhanced by a candle at every table and unique red lamps that hover above. On one side of the restaurant, wide mirrors line the corner where the ceiling meets the wall. The other side reveals a sweeping wine selection. The dark atmosphere makes the place seem secretive, which elicits a mood that is more somber than cozy.
The low-priced menu encompasses a wide selection of dishes, 14 of which are appetizers such as “beef waterfall” and curry dumplings. The “beef waterfall” was phenomenal ““ slices of tender charbroiled sirloin drizzled with a spicy lime-chili dressing and adorned by mint leaves and a sprinkle of green and red onions. The menu promised to serve the curry dumplings in a light green curry sauce, but the dish was neither green nor spicy.
Entrees included the tangy and invigorating “som tum,” a colorful salad made of grated young papaya and carrots; its refreshing chill was a great contrast to the restaurant’s warm interior and solid dark chairs. The spicy drunken noodles, though, tasted more like they were drenched in a sauce of salty Chinese takeout than of spices and basil.
The portions are on the small side but presented incredibly well. The meals are best ordered in larger quantities that can be shared by two or more people rather than in individual dishes.
Even after a couple of dishes, there will still be room for dessert. Yet sweets await only those who come early. The intimacy of the interiors is shaken by the abrupt demands of the cashier for everyone’s check; the waiting staff rushes to close the restaurant promptly. They blow out the candles and turn the chairs on top of the tables a good hour before their listed 11 p.m. closing time, even when there are still people enjoying their meals.
Tuk Tuk offers some zesty flavors and delightful dishes with a notable presentation that is sure to be a feast on the palate and the plate. Just be sure to arrive well before closing time.
““ Kristine Fetalco
E-mail Fetalco at kfetalco@media.ucla.edu