Culinary Conoisseur: The Farm

The Farm

439 Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills

$15-25

The host at The Farm in Beverly Hills greeted me by name when my friend and I walked into the rustic, dim restaurant.

OK, so maybe that’s because I got extremely lost getting there and had to reschedule our reservation three times.

But still, the first-name basis is indicative of the homey feeling of the restaurant. (For the record: The restaurant is not hard to find, I am just directionally inept.)

Stepping into The Farm feels like being invited to eat in someone’s country-style kitchen, only with linen table cloths. It is located just a couple streets east of posh Rodeo Drive, yet you feel comfortable enough to dress casually and maybe even order dessert.

This wasn’t my first time at The Farm; I had previously been to its location at The Grove, and there is also one in Canoga Park. But if there was ever an exception to the chain restaurant stigma, The Farm would be it.

A good starter that’s not on the menu is the bucket of French fries. They come in a neat little tin bucket and are extra hot but don’t taste too oily. Just try not to fill up on them, because the dinner and dessert are real treats.

For dinner, I decided on the pan roasted whitefish served with pumpkin gnocchi and vegetables with a Tarragon Beurre Blanc sauce. The fish was very tender and moist and not overly seasoned. The gnocchi melted in my mouth like little pieces of sweet potato.

The sauce was a bit too strong for my liking; it had a very prominent lemon taste that I found to be a bit overwhelming, but my friend loved it.

My friend ordered the black and white salmon, which is salmon encrusted with sesame seeds and served with baby bok choy, peppers, sugar snap peas and ginger sticky rice. It also came with three sauces: wasabi, honey mustard and orange hoisin.

The salmon was delicious and crispy from the sesame seeds. They gave it the crunch of a fried dish, but without the grease. The different sauces were fun to try and the ginger sticky rice was just sweet enough.

I could write an entire review just on our side dish, the “truffled mac and cheese” (which comes with the fried chicken dish but can be ordered on its own). It comes out in what looks like a miniature tin skillet.

I wish I could fully describe the mac and cheese, but how do you describe heaven? My friend and I literally moaned after every bite of the rich and sharp cheesy concoction. We asked the waiter what was in it and he asked the chef for us.

It turns out that heaven is part manchego, camembert, port salut and goat cheese, and part truffle oil.

Dessert was quite an experience as well. We ordered the “Old Fashioned S’mores.” A perfect size for two people to share, it comes with four homemade graham crackers, four marshmallows on sticks and one Hershey’s chocolate bar. The best part: It’s served with a hibachi and real fire.

I felt like a little kid, trying hard to get the perfect golden marshmallow but inevitably catching it on fire more than once. The graham crackers tasted like soft gingerbread and added a little spice to the warm and gooey dessert. This was one time it felt OK to get a little messy in a nice restaurant.

In addition to our entrees, The Farm also serves pizzas, pasta, salads, chicken and steak. A separate breakfast menu includes several egg dishes, and lunch contains options similar to dinner with the addition of several sandwiches.

The pricing may be a little steep for a student’s wallet, but it is definitely worth the money. It’s the perfect spot for a special occasion, such as a date or dinner with close friends.

The service was the only part lacking in excellence: The pace was a bit too leisurely and we had to ask for our water to be refilled more than once. Still, the waiter was friendly and very helpful with our cheese inquiries.

So, if you’re feeling like a day at the farm without all the dirt and smelly animals but with all the goodness of fresh-from-the-cow ingredients, make sure to visit The Farm.

““ Lauren Schick

E-mail Schick at lschick@media.ucla.edu.

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