Screen Scene: “Waitress”

“Waitress”

Director Adrienne Shelly

Fox Searchlight

(Out Of 5)

With pie names such as I Hate My Husband Pie and Pregnant Miserable Self-Pitying Loser Pie, it’s hard to envision rooting for the main character of “Waitress,” mom-to-be and pie enthusiast Jenna Hunterson (Keri Russell, “Felicity”).

Thankfully, it’s not the name of the pie that matters, but its ingredients, and nothing is sweeter than the lovable heroine, heart-filled script, and illuminating performances that make this film a true treasure.

“Waitress” is a window into the world of Southern hospitality and deep-fried food, both served up at Joe’s Pie Diner, where Jenna spends her days wallowing away while thinking of new pie concoctions.

Writer, director and costar Adrienne Shelly’s script oozes laughter, emotional vulnerability and charm throughout the film.

The laughter comes courtesy of Jenna’s fellow waitresses Becky (Cheryl Hines) and Dawn (Shelly), while the film’s tender moments erupt out of Jenna’s desperate home life with her violent and territorial husband Earl (Jeremy Sisto, “Six Feet Under”).

Thanks to Earl’s selfish ways, all thoughts shift from baking to babies when Jenna reluctantly discovers she’s expecting and soon the real trouble (and charm) arises in the form of her obstetrician, Dr. Pomatter (Nathan Fillion).

Hilarity ensues as the innocent and unassuming Jenna wanders into an adulterous affair with the kind-eyed doc, such as when he asks her out for coffee and she replies, “I can’t have coffee ““ it’s on the bad foods list you gave me!”

The relationship quickly evolves from lust to love and teaches Jenna finally how to love and be happy, the key to dealing with her impending offspring.

On top of Shelly’s well-paced and touching script of self-realization, her talent as director is equally evident. There are one or two exaggerated scenes where the film gets caught up in its own cutesy image, but the film is still well-focused and balanced.

Finally, the cast carries the film from great to one-of-a-kind.

Shelly and especially Hines both execute great comedic chops while Sisto creates an interesting and multi-dimensional man out of bad-guy Earl.

Fillion and veteran actor Andy Griffith both display the earnestness and sincerity required of their nice-guy roles.

Russell is in her own category, taking the audience with Jenna through every step of the struggle.

Just a quiet shot of her face at certain points paints a vivid and complicated picture of woman completely aware of her unhappiness but at a loss for how to change it.

Among today’s cinematic offerings, “Waitress'” mixture of heart and humor is a very rare artifact. Get it while it’s hot.

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