Monday, September 28, 1998
Search for perfect Chinese chicken salad over
FOOD: Delicious California cuisine takes center stage at
pricier, fast-serviced bistro
By Nerissa Pacio
Daily Bruin Senior Staff
The quest for the perfect Chinese chicken salad: an arduous
journey of trial and error. At times, the challenge involves a
disappointing encounter with wilted leaves of Romaine lettuce, or
the shock of shamefully shredded chicken. Other times, the journey
ends at a roadblock of oozing, unidentified dressing, masking
flavors of any morsel threatening to peak out from beneath.
But California Chicken Cafe has officially provided reason to
end the trying search.
While "the salad" usually stands quietly by as the unmemorable
precursor to the main event at most eateries, this restaurant
assigns new meaning to the term "entree salad." And yet, this
raucous feast of greenery seems to have mistakenly acquired an
undramatic, understated name there. That is, the dish of perfectly
ripe and tangy Mandarin oranges, moist and delectable chunks of
all-white, lean chicken, crisp, julienne carrots, springy spiral
pasta, green onions, crunchy baked Chinese noodles and thinly
sliced almonds, all tossed with fresh Romaine lettuce in a sweet
and sour, yet light, vinaigrette, is simply called – Chinese
Chicken Salad. But then again, why dub a dish with a bumbling name
when its taste stands on its own?
The seemingly paradoxical dish of such simple presentation that
combines perfectly complex flavors and textures is no surprise for
this restaurant. Following in the vein of the
made-only-after-you-order fast food and dine-in establishments a la
(ultra trendy) Poquito Mas, Baja Fresh and KooKooRoo, the cafe uses
only the softest pitas to accompany the flame-broiled rotisserie
chicken dishes, fresh butternut squash (amongst other fruits and
vegetables as side orders), the steamiest soups and the most
sizzling of sauteed red potatoes with onions. The crisp-skinned,
succulent roasted chicken, as well as the entree salads, ranging
from traditional Caesar or garden varieties to that with an
Oriental flair are the best bets at this quick, spic-and-span,
refreshingly pure and delicious cafe (which rightly earns the
title, "California cuisine").
However, the wraps stuffed with anything from rice to veggies
and cheese remain only slightly above average in flavor, and the
mashed potatoes pine for a heartier texture to accompany such
luscious, tender meat. On any given day or evening, expect at least
somewhat of a crowd of all ages – from families to the lunchtime
yuppie crowd trickling in from the Wilshire business strip. But the
wait won’t be too long as servers quickly prepare food in full view
and deliver dishes speedily to the table.
And while the prices might seem monstrous for those on the
strict Taco Bell budget of the average college spender, the amount
of cash customers pay pales in comparison to the freshest of
flavors experienced (about $2.25 to $7.00 for side dishes, $3.75 to
$7.00 for salads, and $4.25 to $7.25 for chicken dishes). With a
menu available to cater to anyone’s lower-cal needs, boasting of
flame-roasted chicken and fruits and vegetables galore, a greasy
dripping burger joint this is, thankfully, not.
CHARLES KUO
Substitute teacher Stephanie Lewis, who frequents the California
Chicken Cafe, digs into her chicken salad.
Comments, feedback, problems?
© 1998 ASUCLA Communications Board[Home]