Friday, April 17, 1998
Head west for south of the border favorites
RESTAURANT: Diners enjoy Mexican cuisine, authentic
atmosphere
By Jessica Holt
Daily Bruin Contributor
Walking into the loud, brightly colored cantina, Border Grill
means stepping up to the L.A. cas (as in casual) scene. Vibrantly
painted pictures and symbols cover the black walls. In the
background Spanish language music blares and flaming red crate-like
walls separate a hopping bar scene from a dining area filled with
L.A.-beautiful types.
With all the attention on decor and personality, one might
suspect a cover-up for lackluster food. Yet the Border Grill, one
block from Santa Monica’s Third Street Promenade, serves up some of
the best authentic Mexican cuisine around – along with a healthy
dose of attitude and style.
The restaurant, while out of the price range for regular dining,
offers students the opportunity to indulge in innovative food and
atmosphere for those special occasions and celebrations that
warrant more than a trip to Acapulco’s in Westwood.
Light wood tables and chairs at this 30-plus table restaurant
contrast nicely with the walls’ red, orange, yellow and blue
painted icons. Outlined images of humans, dogs, stars, hands and
circles have a slightly Native American feel and may distract the
customer from reading a menu filled with fresh ideas and
choices.
The servers, clad in black short-sleeved shirts with white
embroidered designs promptly supply chips and three kinds of salsa
while bussers keep water and soda glasses full.
Knowledgeble about the specials and regular menu items, the
servers bring dishes out to the table, quickly attending to
customers’ needs.
The brainchild of chefs Mary Sue Miliken and Susan Feniger, a
team that has appeared on radio, in bookstores, on the Internet and
on their cable TV show on the Food Network "Too Hot Tamales,"
Border Grill serves authentic ethnic Mexican food with flair.
The appetizers ($4.25 to $9.75) are delicious, exotic
forerunners to the main meal. Be careful not to order too many
because they are filling and appealing on their own.
The guacamole ($6.00), mashed to order, delights with its
freshness. Green corn tamales ($5.75) are not green but yellow (the
green means fresh) and the warm grainy corn combines with sour
cream and tomato fresca for an inviting amalgam of tastes.
The plantain empanadas ($5.50), stuffed with black beans and
cheese are recommended for more adventurous souls. The sweet
plaintain, a member of the banana family, collides with the earthy
texture of the beans to create a vibrant blend of flavors.
Entree choices ($10.75 to $21.50) span from variations of fresh
fish, steak and chicken dishes to stew, portobello mushrooms and
traditional chile relleno.
The grilled salmon ($17.25), sits on top of warm poblano mashed
potatoes with smoked three-bean salsa and roasted peppers strewn
generously on top. Equally delicious with an added spicy kick are
the rock shrimp ($16.50), sauteed with toasted Ancho chiles and
garlic lime and served with greens and rice. The grilled skirt
steak ($16.50) is tender and juicy, marinated with garlic, cilantro
and cracked pepper, an interesting twist for steak-lovers.
The desserts ($2.00 to $6.50) are definitely worth saving room
for. The flan ($4.25), a traditional dessert in Mexican households
everywhere, has a wonderfully light creamy texture topped with
syrupy caramel, creating a taste that literally melts in the
mouth.
A daring alternative are the crepes con cajeta ($4.75). These
warm, sweet crepes are filled with a gooey Mexican caramel sauce
blended with pecans. With the characteristic texture of peanut
butter, the blackberries and blueberries ladled on top compliment
the crepes well. The desserts and coffee menu stands out, making
Border Grill also a desirable place for something sweet after a
movie or show.
A refreshing atmosphere marked by sumptuous, care-intensive food
merges together to create a restaurant that really cooks. Border
Grill serves up inspiring dishes amidst a background that flatters
the food’s ethnic character. The prices may be on the high end for
everyday situations, but this brilliant restaurant will truly make
any special occasion a memorable one.