Friday, March 13, 1998
Get thee to The Abbey, Hollywood’s hippest cafe
RESTAURANT: Soothing atmosphere, astounding food makes for a
memorable dining, drinking experience
By Vanessa VanderZanden
Daily Bruin Staff
A slight breeze rustles the leaves of the surrounding plants.
Water trickles from the outdoor fountain. And though cars rumble by
the West Hollywood setting, they sound more like a calming Parisian
bustle than an L.A. nuisance.
Where can such an idyllic environment be found this side of
overpopulated, societal hell? At The Abbey, a cafe and restaurant
at the corner of the Robertson and Santa Monica Boulevards, which
caters largely, but not exclusively, to the gay community. Despite
its congested location, the well-known, late-night hangout offers
an oasis from the stresses of daytime grunt work.
Mostly an enlarged patio, the veranda-style grounds find
separation from the street merely by a black, metal gate on wheels.
The Abbey provides a relaxed atmosphere that feels like a settling
European afternoon.
Plants strung with white lights creep out of the walls, working
aesthetically with the umbrellaed tables. These sanctuaries from
the sun provide the perfect ambience for individuals to get in some
afternoon reading over a latte or capuccino. The young,
well-dressed crowd gives off a content, self-assured glow that
offers its own sort of relaxation.
Amidst this peaceful arena, the slight aroma of fresh, ground
coffee beans mingles with the soothing melodies of Enya or
classical piano concertos. The source of these enchantments reside
just beyond the open seating area.
Though the interior portion seems to consist mostly of a bakery
counter and chalkboard of food specials, huge vintage chandeliers
and a mosaic manage serve as decor.
However, the glass case of sweets is all anyone within this nook
will notice. It features humongous tortes, cakes and goodies
spilling over three tiers. From the chocolate and vanilla-swirled
buttercream tuxedo cake, to a macadamia-nut, coconut, pecan-filling
based torte and a 6-inch, chocolate shaving-covered meringue to a
decadent, chocolate-layered Snickers cheesecake, one can’t go
wrong. Even the vast array of bunt cakes, coffeecakes, and
individual-sized mousses and cobblers look like something from the
pages of Bon Appetit, worth every cent of the just-under $5 cost of
most desserts.
To complement these rich concoctions, The Abbey offers an entire
list of espresso drinks for a couple of bucks a piece. Made with
care and precision, these jolting brews bite in a satisfying way
that even the least of Starbuckian cafes would be want to emulate.
They also offer a variety of their very own expresso creations,
like the holy cow ($2.90), a fiendishly sweet blend of hazelnut
syrup, thick chocolate sauce, cream and espresso over ice.
However, the beverage offerings continue from there. Smoothies,
espresso shakes and a full range of imported beers coexist with all
sorts of teas and juice. Even wine finds a home here, which offers
a nice complement to the variety of gourmet food options.
The menu includes sandwiches ranging from the Ahi tuna, to the
steak, to the grilled chicken breast dressed with Dijon mustard,
all served with either a potato and vegetable side or the
equivalent ($6 to $8). Within the same price bracket, numerous
salads span from the standard Caesar combinations and
Chinese-chicken sort to the more aristocratic varieties.
A splendid example comes in the warm salad ($8.50), which
combines fresh, baby greens with sun-dried tomatoes, chunks of
seasoned baked chicken, goat cheese and plump, ripe tomatoes under
a subtilely flavored vinaigrette. At once light and refreshing, the
dish is filling but still leaves room to gorge on dessert.
Still, the cafe provides more than just sandwich and salad
options or even their soup of the day. Dinner entrees include such
treats as turkey chili, quesadillas and an entire selection of
pastas. The classy variety includes a seafood option, with fresh
mussels, revealing The Abbey to be a lot more than merely an
outdoor cafe.
The establishment even provides a full breakfast menu. Just the
thought of sipping freshly-brewed coffee over a sizzling omelet
under the bright sunshine would be enough to entice anyone to
scream, "Carpe Diem!"
Yet most of The Abbey’s business is done once the shows get out
and people refuse to go home. As the crowd shifts into a state of
wee-hour revelry, the gates of the restaurant burst in an attempt
to contain the mass of hip individuals. Catering to this bustling
element, The Abbey only serves those 21 and over after 8 p.m.,
attaching a one-drink minimum.
Whatever the time of day, The Abbey has the capacity to
accommodate its customers. With a friendly, dedicated staff, the
soothing cafe offers an oasis from the events outside of its metal
gates. Sort of like a monastery of Medieval Europe. Sort of like,
well, a modern-day abbey.MICHAEL ROSS WACHT
The Abbey, a hip restaurant and coffeehouse, is located in West
Hollywood on the corner of Robertson and Santa Monica.