Friday, January 16, 1998
Experiencing Cafe Brasil promises escape from L.A. glamour
RESTAURANT Though a bit overpriced, casual setting makes for a
pleasant evening
By Nerissa Pacio
Daily Bruin Senior Staff
On a warm summer evening lit by firefly skies, sweet aromas
tease and linger in the air. Drifting to the tiny porch are sounds
of sizzles and stirs, beats and bakes. Mom, is it ready yet? Is it
time to eat?
Welcome to Cafe Brasil, where the owners of the mini kitchen and
porch cottage boast that it’s "the real home-made meal."
Dimly lit by strands of white Christmas bulbs and the flicker of
tiny votive candles, the 15-table cafe provides peace and
relaxation as a prelude to their very own comfort-food zone. Like
grandma’s kitchen, the cafe is a reminder in the sea of L.A. excess
that country-style simplicity still exists (even if it is along the
busy street of Venice).
Diners can choose to sit on any of the mismatched chairs from
peeling wood benches to aged ratan stools. Couples stroll in and
out at times, two friends step up to the kitchen counter while
lovers grab a bite and lounge in a corner, chatting over large
steaming plates.
As casual as the surroundings, the menu of daily specials is
scribbled hastily in bright colors on a board hanging above the
"Order Here" counter. Lamb, shrimp, chicken, beef or vegetable
combinations are the usual specials ranging from $6 to $10.50.
A small window beside the counter displays the appetizers, such
as pasteis ($2.50), Brazilian empanada (a sweetened baked dough
shell) stuffed with beef, cheese or heart of palm (a vegetable),
and empadinha ($1.95), a mini pie resembling a flaky quiche.
Appetizers, are small and overpriced, but are worth the try for
first-time Brazilian cuisine diners.
The general menu includes chicken, sirloin steak and vegetarian
hot sandwiches, accompanied by fresh salsa, cheese and crisp
romaine lettuce on a french roll ($4.25 to $4.95). The homemade
salsa of freshly diced tomatoes, onions, and cilantro and the
smooth-textured french bread add a uniqueness to the standard
sandwich fare of most restaurants.
Other dishes include pasta ($6.25 to $13.95) served with
vegetables, chicken or shrimp, and a bowl of vegetable or black
bean soup, or salad. While the soup and salad are fresh, the soup’s
seasoning and the salad’s vinegarette dressing remain rather
ordinary.
However, the grill offers many homemade dishes marinated in
Brazilian spices. White steamed rice, garlic-based black beans and
two sweetly coated plantains accompany each entree, along with soup
or salad. The pork chop combo ($8.50) which includes two large
tender pork chops, are flavorfully marinated and grilled,
reflecting the taste of mom’s original yet slightly imperfect
creations.
The vegetarian plate ($7.25), includes a heaping portion of
sauteed broccoli, zucchini, tomatoes and mustard greens marinated
with a flavor hesitating between slightly salty and a bit tangy.
The marinade does not take away from the naturally fresh vegetable
flavors.
While the service is fast and friendly and the portions are
fair, CafeBrasil tends to be slightly pricier than expected for a
casual self-serve establishment (fresh juices average $2.15 per
styrofoam cup). While the ambiance has definite character and the
food reflects the slightly greasy but hearty homemade appeal, it’s
no wonder that their much larger and cheaper neighbor, Versailles,
fares better in the restaurant wars.