Friday, November 21, 1997
Speedy service at Cuban eatery hampers food’s quality, taste
RESTAURANT: Versailles, while popular, leaves something to be
desired
By J. Jioni Palmer
Daily Bruin Senior Staff
Drive past Motor and Venice any Friday or Saturday night and
you’re bound to encounter a mass of people outside of Versailles.
Taking its name from the owner’s hometown, Versailles is one of
only a handful of Cuban restaurants in the Los Angeles area.
Despite having recently been renovated, the restaurant is not
ornately decorated. Versailles has the feel of a diner, complete
with red vinyl chairs and a countertop with stools for single
seating. The walls are adorned with a mix of favorable restaurant
reviews, pictures of Cuban landscape and autographed celebrity mug
shots. On weekends, the restaurant buzzes with activity, housing
party groups ranging from one to 10 or more. During off-peak hours,
anytime other than Friday or Saturday nights, a diverse array of
patrons populate the restaurant.
A trip to Versailles any weekday around noon, and the tables are
most likely to be filled with "suits" having a business lunch, or a
work crew taking a respite. The dinner crowd is an eclectic mix of
couples sharing a romantic evening as well as large families
enjoying each other’s company.
Once seated, each table promptly receives a basket of rolls
equal to exactly the number of persons seated (more are available
upon request). It’s hit or miss whether the rolls will feel hot out
of the oven or at room temperature, but they are guaranteed to be
crunchy and flaky on the outside. This perhaps wouldn’t be so much
of a problem if saucers were provided, but since they are not, the
tables are likely to be littered with crumbs.
The menu doesn’t list any appetizers. Rather, the closest are
under "side orders." Cuban tamales and yuca are about the only two
side orders that are not repeated on other parts of the menu. The
Cuban tamales are bite-sized, pork-filled mouth teasers and yuca is
a yam- or potato-type vegetable that comes either boiled or fried.
The fried yuca has a strong resemblance and taste to french
fries.
The menu boasts a variety of beverages in addition to the
traditional sodas, juice, coffee, beer and tea. In fact, it has a
wealth of "Cuban soft-drinks" and milk shakes. One of the Cuban
drinks, called Materva, tastes like ginger ale with an overbearing
apple flavoring. Another, called Ironbeer, is a cola beverage with
the combined flavor of Dr Pepper and cream soda. However, one has
to wonder how authentic these Cuban beverages are, considering
there is a trade embargo against Cuba.
Rather than the usual milk shake flavors like vanilla, chocolate
and strawberry, Versailles offers more tropical flavors like mango,
banana and coconut. The shakes are very thick, more fruity than
they are milky, and can be easily eaten with a spoon.
In addition to the nightly specials, the menu features 45
different entrees. Main dishes include roasted garlic chicken, ox
tails, shrimps in yellow rice, Cuban style beef stew, roasted pork
and your pick of top sirloin, New York, rib eye steaks. Each entree
comes with side orders of black beans, rice and fried plantain
slices.
Unless black beans, rice and fried bananas are a meal of choice
or a favorite meal, this is not a place that caters to vegetarians.
The two items on the vegetarian menu feature a combination of these
items, plus a green salad. Choosing among the salads and side
orders will provide the customers only a few more options.
Once the order is taken, the meal generally arrives in less than
10 minutes. The service is extremely prompt, but the food quality
might suffer as a consequence.
First of all, none of the meals taste as if they are cooked to
order. The fried plantains are soggy and cold, like some space
occupier on the plate. The rice is just plain white rice. However,
the black beans have a distinct smokey flavor, and unlike refried,
pintos or whole navy beans, they are served like soup in a small
bowl.
The swordfish, which is a rarity to find for a decent price
(Versailles offers them at $8.95), is almost always a pleasant
surprise on any menu. However, Versailles’ seafood dish served as a
disappointing letdown. The swordfish, which at most restaurants is
either served as a thick steak or as finely sculptured medallions,
is instead filleted, overcooked and burnt around the edges. Devoid
of its natural flavors, this particular entree is a chore to
swallow.
Versailles is more well-known for their chicken entrees. Most
dishes offer a half-roasted chicken either sauteed or covered in a
choice of sauces.
The barbecue sauce is sweet but evenly balanced by a slight hint
of vinegar. The chicken with garlic sauce comes covered with
steamed onions and has a strong (but not too pungent) smell. The
aroma is a mixture of garlic and lemon.
According to the server, the flan is the best choice for
dessert. Perhaps, you should heed to his warning because the guava
shells with cheese leaves much to be desired. The only thing that
distinguishes this dessert from a can of fruit marked "Del Monte
heavy syrup" is the dab of cream cheese in the middle. Three bites
and the natural flavor of the guava is replaced by the thick, sweet
sauce poured on top.
Throughout the meal service is quick, often to the point that it
seems hurried. The impression it gives imply that they want to get
the customers in and out as soon as possible, no matter what time
of day. However, being made to feel that you’re occupying someone
else’s seat makes it difficult to enjoy your meal.
Overall, Versailles provides a good and filling meal in a
comfortable setting. The heaping portions will satisfy even the
most famished diner. The lunch menu is no different than the dinner
menu, except in smaller portions and french fries are served
instead of plantains at a lower price. Lunch or dinner at
Versailles is the perfect place for the starving student,with
plenty of good food at a decent price.